Big birds

For many ostrich farmers, the main attraction is the meat. Ostrich meat, which is considered red meat, has won fans because of its low fat content.

"It's healthy, and a lot of people like that about it," Todd says. "It's lower in fat than chicken, but it looks and tastes like steak."

The Appelbaums take their birds to a USDA processing facility in Washington, New Jersey. Since their farm is near New York City, they are able to take ostrich meat samples directly to influential chefs and food fairs. The brothers sell their products directly through their Web site. Ostrich leather is becoming increasingly popular, Todd says. The leather has a distinctive pattern because of the quills. It is known to be very durable, which makes it ideal for purses, shoes, and belts.

Fossil Farms sends its ostriches for meat and leather processing when the birds are 1 year old (by that time the animals have gained most of their weight). The Appelbaums take advantage of the birds' versatility. "We use pretty much everything but the feathers," Todd says.