Pasture Fencing

Good fences make good neighbors, and they keep animals safe and secure.

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There are many fencing options for horses, ranging from simple to high tech. But before you dig the first fence post, plan your site carefully. Consider size, convenience, and the lay of the land, says Extension forage agronomist Ed Rayburn at West Virginia University.

"Some land is steep; some land lays flat. Topography also impacts supplying water to the paddocks," says Rayburn. "So not only are you looking at soil situations, but also you're looking at ease of getting water to those paddocks."

After you've determined the pasture location, calculate where the boundaries will be by the number of horses, the amount of forage mass that can be produced, and how it may be used for other purposes. Also, determine whether the fences will be permanent or portable.

"I do encourage you to look at using some temporary fencing to fine-tune, especially in critical times," says Rayburn. "As an example, if you get into a drought period, you'll benefit from being a little more critical in your management than when things are going well."

Wire mesh fencing

A pasture surrounded by barbed wire fencing is cheap to build, but you'll be paying for it with veterinary bills. There are so many other options that are safe, attractive, and durable. Agriculture engineer Eileen Wheeler at Penn State University says the safest but most expensive fencing is wire mesh made specifically for horses.

"A solid mesh fence should be about 5 feet high. It might come down close to or near the ground and the horses can't get their heads through it, foals can't get through it, and dogs can't get into the enclosure where the horses are," says Wheeler.

A single, electrified strand of wire isn't going to gain the respect of your horses, especially if you turn the electricity off every now and then. If your horses try to go through the wire, they could become tangled up and sliced. Fortunately, electric fencing manufacturers have taken this into consideration.

"They now have electrical wires embedded in a matrix of very elastic and stretchy materials. And this design provides two things," says Wheeler. "It gets the cutting wire away from the horse because the horse contacts the web, mesh, or fabric material rather than a sharp wire. And it increases the visibility of the electric line."

Wire mesh fencing costs about $150-$200 per 100 feet.

Refrain from stringing an electric wire at the top of vinyl or PVC fencing. It looks nice, but it doesn't make a secure horse barrier. Horses will test a fence's strength deliberately and casually, especially if they're spirited and like to push their limits. Just one good shove and they'll easily break through.

Portable electric braid

If you choose to move the grazing area around, you'll need a fencing apparatus that is easily taken down and put back up again. Electrified wire is a popular option. It can be powered by batteries, solar power, or an electrical hookup.

Bryan Pulliam is an inventor of a portable fencing system and says when you're shopping for one, the biggest factor to consider is that a portable fence should be designed to avoid being damaged if a horse should go through it.

"Our favored product for the wire-line material is ElectroBraid because the nylon rope is very strong, won't break, and is very kind on human hands and horse flesh. What does break -- and if a horse runs through it, you want something to break for safety -- is the soil where the steel pegs go into the ground."

This allows the system to rapidly come down and go slack. The horse shakes it off and gets out safely, says Pulliam. ElectroBraid sells for about $100 for 600 feet.

Versatile corral panels

Tubular steel corral panels can be portable or used as permanent fencing. Martin Wilke has sold corral panels for 25 years, and he says there are two factors you should consider before purchasing panels: The animals you have and what you can afford.

The strength of the panel depends on the gauge of steel. The lower the number, the tougher it is. Panels range from 14 to 22 gauge. Horses usually require 16 to 18 gauge steel. "For calves, sheep, goats, ostrich, emu, llama, alpaca, you can generally get by with an 18 or 20 gauge. If you're getting into a general cow-calf operation, that's where getting an 18 or 16 gauge is more important," says Wilke. "If you're raising big or rough stock, or you're breaking horses or mustangs, you have to look at 16 and 14 gauge."

The age and temperament of your horses are also factors to consider. Most panels are 5 feet tall, but for big or spirited horses that need a little more height to hold them in, a 6-foot panel is in order.

Tubular steel corral panels that are 12 foot x 60 inches cost $69 to $150, depending on the gauge.

Combination of products

There is no one perfect fence for all situations. You may find you need a combination of fencing, depending on your location and purpose. Ask your neighbors about their fencing choices and if they're happy with them. Talk to dealers and manufacturers about materials, construction, cost, and warranties.

A high-quality, sturdy fence may initially be expensive, but in the long run, you'll have more time to enjoy your horses because you won't be dealing with time-consuming repairs.

Goat fencing

It has been said, "If it won't hold water, it won't hold goats." The importance of a good goat fence cannot be overstated. Ask anyone who owns goats and you'll hear differing opinions as to what is the best type of fencing to keep these four-legged Houdinis penned in.

Penn State livestock educator Linda Spahr recommends five-strand electric fences because they keep the goats in and predators out. The most important detail of electric fencing is the height. The bottom strand should be no more than 6 inches off the ground or the goats will sneak under it; the top strand should be at least 3 feet off the ground or they'll step over it. Some goat owners electrify only two strands and alternate them so the goats don't figure out how to escape. After the first zap or two, most goats will learn to respect the fence.

Hyperactive goats might be better off inside a chain-link fence, but that type of barrier can get expensive. Livestock panels will work, too, unless the animals are pole-vaulters. Goats are notorious climbers, so they will jump against the fence, use it as a catapult, and escape. Another panel fencing option includes vertical bars so the goats can't stand on them. Young kids, however, will tend to walk through them. Quite often it takes a combination of fencing options to keep a herd corralled, so Spahr suggests running an electric wire parallel to anything the goats see as a challenge to jump over.

Woven wire fences with both vertical and horizontal strands are another option, but the vertical spacings should be more than 6 inches so horned goats are able to free themselves if they put their heads through and get caught.

No matter what you choose, don't scrimp on material quality and construction. If there is a flaw in your fence, your goats will find it!

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